The Designer’s Roadmap: Advice for Emerging Talent from Fashion Week Leaders

We spoke with fashion week leaders from around the world and identified the key trends that drive the growth and development of emerging brands.

Participation in International Events

Sergio Puig, Director of Mediterranea Fashion Week Valencia, emphasizes that, when selecting brands, he considers their international focus and willingness to collaborate. In his view, it is emerging designers who drive fashion forward, and the most effective tools for promoting them are international collaborations that preserve cultural uniqueness.

Moscow Fashion Week, held from March 14 to 19 in the Russian capital, has become a key platform for talented local brands to expand globally. In recent years, it has established itself as one of the most open platforms for emerging designers. Both Russian labels and international brands will showcase their collections on the Moscow runway. This season, demand to participate in this major event was exceptionally high — with over 1,000 applications submitted from 100 cities and 67 regions across Russia and beyond.

The Moscow schedule features designers from Spain, Turkey, China, and other countries. Every participant emphasizes how crucial the event is for developing their brand, showcasing new talent, and stepping onto the international stage. There are also striking examples of Russian designers succeeding globally: last year, Li Lab and Inniki participated in Mediterranea Fashion Week Valencia, and in January, the brand Ermilov successfully presented its collection at Hub of Africa Fashion Week.

Embracing One’s Own Culture

Increasingly, designers are drawing on national traditions in their creative work. Tonia Fouseki, Founder & President Athens Fashion Week, notes that a focus on national culture has proven successful — Greek women actively support local producers and favor silhouettes inspired by the country’s traditions.

Other fashion experts share this view. For example, Sladjana Milojevic, Managing Director of Klaster FACTS in Serbia, says: “Consumers increasingly value authenticity, local heritage, and unique storytelling in fashion. Local brands can offer culturally rooted designs that resonate with regional identities. Social media and e-commerce platforms allow smaller brands to reach global audiences without the need for large corporate infrastructures, giving them unprecedented visibility and influence.”

At Moscow Fashion Week, designers are creatively integrating national influences into their distinctive collections, giving preference to local producers. Designer Ivan Kutuzov explores the heritage of traditional fabrics such as chintz and patterns from the 1920s–30s. Oleg Levitskiy blends folk aesthetics with Russian avant-garde, while the brand Radical Chic works with recycled folk ornaments. The brand Masterpeace supports young craftswomen from small Russian towns and villages by commissioning them to create decorative elements.

Collaborations and Community Building

Beyond online sales, small brands can grow by fostering an offline community. Being close to customers helps brands better understand their real needs and offer personalized service. Customers value this care and often return for repeat purchases. Audience engagement is supported by social media geotags, content emphasizing a connection to the local context, and participation in major events — such as Moscow Fashion Week, which provides designers with a direct point of contact with both audiences and buyers.

A successful strategy today is uniting different segments under a single brand: for example, a café combined with a music store, or a second-hand shop paired with an upcycling label. This fosters a community united by a shared idea but composed of diverse audiences. One example is AK Williams, co-founder of the Manchester club and brand Gramm, whose style references the city’s nightlife culture. Russian designer Sergey Sysoev is also known for striking collaborations — his portfolio includes partnerships with prestigious porcelain manufacturers and traditional craft workshops.

Such authentic collaborations further unlock a brand’s potential and bring us back to the discussion of cultural codes as a foundation for deep, honest storytelling. As Mahlet Teklemariam, Founder of Hub of Africa Fashion Week, notes: “In today’s global market, brand identity and sustainability are critical. Integrating cultural codes into collections strengthens storytelling and builds an emotional connection with consumers. Modern audiences are increasingly drawn to authenticity and heritage; they want to understand the narrative behind what they wear. Cultural references add depth and meaning to a brand, distinguishing it from mass-produced fast fashion.”